A Guide to Stone Cuts and What They Really Mean

If you’ve ever browsed a piece of jewellery and paused at the words brilliant, marquise, or cabochon, you’re not alone. These terms refer to the cut of a gemstone, and they hold more significance than you might think. A stone’s cut shapes not just its appearance but its sparkle, symmetry and overall character. It is one of the most important aspects of how a gem is experienced and appreciated.

Whether you are shopping for a diamond ring, selecting an heirloom piece or simply refining your jewellery knowledge, understanding the differences between stone cuts can help you see each gem with new eyes.

What Is a Stone Cut?

When gemstones are mined or grown, they begin life in a rough, unshaped form. It is the skill of the gem cutter that transforms these raw crystals into something captivating. The cut determines the stone’s outline, depth, proportions and how it reflects light.

Some cuts are designed to maximise brilliance, others to enhance colour or to showcase the natural clarity of the stone. A well-chosen cut brings out a gem’s strengths while artfully concealing any minor imperfections. It is both a technical craft and a form of art.

Emerald Cut

The emerald cut is rectangular in shape and has around fifty facets. Fewer than those in a round brilliant, these broader, more open facets create less sparkle but draw the eye to the stone’s colour and clarity. This cut is elegant, structured and quietly confident, often chosen for its architectural lines and timeless silhouette.

Marquise Cut

The marquise cut is long and narrow, shaped with pointed ends and curved sides, often likened to a boat or an eye. With fifty-seven facets, it reflects light beautifully and tends to appear larger than other stones of similar carat weight. This cut has a romantic, vintage quality and brings a sense of elongation and drama to any setting.

Princess Cut

The princess cut is square in shape and known for its brilliance. With between fifty-eight and seventy-six facets, this modern cut offers intense sparkle and suits a wide range of gemstones, especially those with high transparency. It is particularly popular in engagement rings for its crisp lines and contemporary appeal.

Cabochon Cut

The cabochon is one of the oldest and most traditional gemstone cuts. Unlike faceted stones, cabochons are polished into smooth, domed shapes without facets. This makes them ideal for opaque gems such as turquoise or those with internal glow and iridescence, including moonstone and opal. The effect is soft and organic, allowing the natural beauty of the stone to take centre stage.

Pear Cut

The pear cut is shaped like a teardrop, with a rounded end on one side and a delicate point on the other. It typically features seventy-one facets and creates a graceful, elongating effect on the finger. Loved for its fluid form and movement, the pear cut blends classic beauty with contemporary style.

Round Cut

The round cut, also known as the brilliant cut, is the most iconic and enduring of all. It was refined over centuries by gem cutters seeking the optimal way to reflect light. With fifty-seven facets, it maximises sparkle and remains a favourite for engagement rings and timeless diamond jewellery. When people picture a classic diamond, this is often the cut that comes to mind.

Oval Cut

The oval cut is a relatively modern addition, first developed in the mid-twentieth century. It offers the brilliance of a round cut with a more elongated, slender profile. With sixty-nine facets, it brings a unique combination of symmetry and soft curves, making it a popular choice for those who want something just a little different.

Baguette Cut

The baguette cut is rectangular, long and slim, with a minimalist feel. It has just fourteen facets, which gives it a subtle, clear appearance rather than bold sparkle. This cut is most often used for accent stones in multi-stone settings, where its clean lines complement a more prominent centrepiece. It is especially effective at showcasing the purity and precision of a high-quality stone.

Understanding gemstone cuts can transform the way you look at jewellery. Each cut tells its own story and serves its own purpose. From the brilliance of a round diamond to the depth of an emerald cut sapphire, the right cut can elevate a stone and bring out its natural beauty.

Whether you are choosing a piece for yourself or selecting something special for someone else, knowing the language of cuts gives you the confidence to choose well. And as always, we are here to guide you.