Your Guide To Jewellery Settings

In jewellery design, the setting refers to how a stone is held in place, but it’s also much more than that. The setting is what gives a piece its character. It shapes the look, defines the sparkle, affects the price and even determines how you’ll care for it. Whether you’re choosing an engagement ring, restoring a family heirloom or commissioning something bespoke, understanding the setting is essential.

Claw Setting

Claw settings, sometimes called prong settings, are one of the most classic and widely recognised styles in fine jewellery. Small metal claws hold the stone in place, usually three, four or six depending on the design. This setting allows maximum light to pass through the stone, enhancing brilliance and sparkle, especially in diamonds and other transparent gems. Because more of the stone is exposed, a claw setting can make it appear larger and more radiant. However, it also means the gem is more vulnerable to knocks, so regular checks by a jeweller are recommended to ensure the claws remain tight. It is a setting loved for its elegance and tradition, often seen in engagement rings where light performance and symmetry are key.

Bezel Setting

A bezel setting, also known as 'rubover', surrounds the stone with a fine rim of metal that curves slightly over its edges. It’s a design that feels sleek and secure. Because the metal wraps around the gem, it offers excellent protection and is less likely to snag, making it ideal for everyday wear. However, it does cover a portion of the stone’s surface which can soften its brilliance. That said, bezels can bring out the richness of a gem’s colour beautifully, especially in smooth cabochon-style stones like opal, moonstone or onyx.

Channel Setting

A channel setting creates a clean line of gemstones held side by side in a continuous groove. The edges of the channel are gently pushed over to keep the stones in place, forming a seamless, geometric effect. This setting is often used for eternity rings or bands, where sparkle is meant to span the entire width. It offers a streamlined look and protects the edges of each stone, although it’s slightly less secure than other styles if worn daily.

Pavé Setting

Pavé, the French word for pavement, describes tiny gemstones set closely together to give the impression of a continuous glittering surface. Each stone is nestled into a drilled hole and secured with small beads of metal, creating a delicate shimmer across the band or around a centre stone. Pavé settings are intricate and require true craftsmanship. They are more delicate than other styles, and because of the fine nature of the metalwork, they need to be worn and stored with care.

Grain Setting

Grain setting is a traditional style where small beads of metal are raised from the surface of the mount itself to hold the stone in place. It’s similar in appearance to pavé but often used with fewer stones or to create fine detail around larger settings. You’ll often see grain settings in vintage pieces where the texture and structure of the setting add to the overall beauty. The charm of a grain setting lies in its softness and heritage feel, especially when paired with old cut diamonds or coloured stones.

Flush Setting

In a flush setting, the stone is sunk into the metal until it sits perfectly level with the surface. Only the top of the gemstone is visible, giving a subtle, contemporary feel. It’s sometimes referred to as a ‘gypsy setting’ and is popular in men’s jewellery or for clients who lead active lifestyles and want a truly low-profile piece. The metal surrounding the stone protects it from everyday knocks and bumps, while the simplicity of the look allows the material and stone to speak for themselves.

Tension Setting

Tension settings rely on pressure rather than claws or bezels to hold the stone in place. The gemstone appears to float between two open ends of the metal band, held only by precise engineering and structural force. It’s a striking modern look that showcases the entire stone from all angles. This setting is not suitable for all stone types or everyday wear, but when done properly it creates a dramatic and contemporary finish.

Which Setting is Right for You?

The right setting depends on the design you love, the way you’ll wear it, and the stone itself. Bezel and flush settings offer strength and practicality. Pavé, grain and channel settings give intricacy and sparkle. Tension settings deliver impact. Our advice is always to begin with what you’re drawn to instinctively. From there, we can advise on how best to make it last.

If you have a ring that needs altering or are dreaming of a new commission, our in-house workshop can talk you through all the options. From remounting a diamond into a different setting to restoring a much-loved piece, we’re here to help you get the most out of your jewellery for generations to come.