Semi-Precious Gemstones in Antique Jewellery

Semi-Precious Gemstones in Antique and Vintage Jewellery

At Walter Bull & Son, we specialise in antique and vintage jewellery featuring a wide range of beautiful gemstones. While diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies are among the best-known choices, many semi-precious gemstones were also used throughout historic jewellery design.

This guide introduces some of the most commonly found semi-precious stones in antique jewellery, from opal and aquamarine to garnet, peridot, turquoise and onyx, with notes on their colours, settings and popular jewellery periods.

Opal Jewellery

Example: Victorian opal ring with diamond surround

Opals were often set in Victorian rings and Edwardian brooches, where their shifting colours brought softness and movement to period designs. Many antique opals were cut en cabochon and mounted in yellow gold, sometimes with a border of rose-cut diamonds. Art Deco jewellery used opals more sparingly, often pairing them with platinum for a cooler, more modern contrast.

Aquamarine Jewellery

Example: Art Deco aquamarine and diamond ring

Aquamarine, a pale blue beryl, was especially popular in Art Deco rings and pendants. These gemstones were often emerald cut and set in platinum or white gold alongside diamonds, which highlighted their clarity and fresh blue tone. Earlier examples can also be found in Edwardian necklaces and Georgian drop earrings.

Amethyst Jewellery

Example: Victorian amethyst brooch with seed pearls

Amethyst was widely used in Victorian jewellery, particularly in brooches, lockets and statement rings. It also appeared in Georgian rings, where foil backing was sometimes used to enhance the depth of colour. Larger amethysts were often set in pinchbeck or low-karat gold and framed with seed pearls or garnets.

Citrine Jewellery

Example: Antique citrine jewellery

Citrine, a golden-yellow variety of quartz, was used in Georgian and Victorian necklaces, brooches and statement rings. Large citrines were often faceted in oval or cushion cuts and set in yellow gold, sometimes with engraved detailing or complementary stones such as peridot.

Pearl Jewellery

Example: Edwardian pearl and diamond pendant

Pearls were essential in Georgian and Edwardian jewellery. They appear in drop earrings, fringe necklaces and as delicate accents around gemstone centres. Natural pearls were especially prized before cultured pearls became more widely available and were often set in silver or gold with diamonds.

Garnet Jewellery

Example: Victorian garnet cluster brooch

Garnet was commonly used in Victorian brooches, rings and parures. Deep red almandine garnets were often arranged in clusters or polished as cabochons. Bohemian garnet jewellery, featuring small faceted stones set closely together in low-carat gold or gilt metal, was especially popular.

Peridot Jewellery

Example: Suffragette peridot ring

Peridot was frequently used in Suffragette jewellery, often alongside amethyst and pearl. It appears in both Victorian and Edwardian rings and pendants, typically set in yellow gold with claw or bezel settings. Its bright green colour makes it a distinctive choice in antique gemstone jewellery.

Tourmaline Jewellery

Example: Vintage tourmaline ring

Tourmaline was used in a variety of antique jewellery, particularly during the late Victorian and Art Nouveau periods. Its wide range of colours made it ideal for multi-stone rings, pendants and stick pins. Pink and green tourmalines were especially popular in yellow gold settings.

Topaz Jewellery

Example: Antique topaz ring with diamond accents

Topaz, especially the golden-orange variety, was used in Georgian and early Victorian jewellery. These gemstones were often foil-backed and set in closed-back settings to enhance their colour. Blue topaz appears more commonly in later 20th-century vintage jewellery.

Turquoise Jewellery

Example: Victorian turquoise cluster ring

Turquoise was frequently used in Georgian and Victorian cluster rings, brooches and earrings. It was often paired with pearls or diamonds and set in yellow gold. Persian turquoise, known for its even colour, was particularly sought after in antique jewellery.

Tanzanite Jewellery

Example: Vintage tanzanite and diamond ring

Tanzanite, discovered in the 1960s, appears in later vintage rings and earrings rather than earlier antique pieces. Known for its deep blue-violet hue, it is often set in white gold or platinum and combined with diamonds for added contrast.

Jade Jewellery

Example: Antique and vintage jade jewellery

Jade appears in Victorian and Art Deco pieces, especially those influenced by East Asian design. It was carved into beads, plaques or cameos and set in bangles, earrings and necklaces. Green and white jade are most common, while lavender jade can also be seen in some vintage items.

Onyx Jewellery

Example: Antique and vintage onyx jewellery

Onyx was used in Victorian mourning jewellery as well as in Art Deco pieces, where its dark colour created bold contrast with diamonds, platinum or seed pearls. Common forms include signet rings, cameo brooches and long beaded necklaces.

Choosing Semi-Precious Gemstone Jewellery

When buying semi-precious gemstone jewellery, consider the stone’s colour, condition, setting and age. Antique and vintage pieces often show hand-finished details that make each jewel unique, from old-cut diamond borders to engraved gold mounts and period-specific settings.

Explore our antique and vintage gemstone jewellery at Walter Bull & Son to find opal, aquamarine, amethyst, garnet, peridot, turquoise, jade, onyx and other beautiful semi-precious stone pieces.